Logging at Kelsey Bay

Did I mention there are lots of trees? Yes, well having never been in the Pacific Northwest before, I had no appreciation for the importance of the logging industry to the region, or what that industry actually entailed. Of course I understood that trees were being cut down by the zillions, buzzed into lumber, milled into toilet paper, and I've even shed tears about what is happening in the Amazon rainforests.  Being a wood consuming tree-hugger from way back, I pretty much avoid thinking about it, much like a meat eating animal lover avoids thinking about stock yards, slaughter houses and crying calves separated from their mothers.  

In our travels I have now encountered both stockyards and logging yards in reality. My attempt has been to see these things, without judgement or hysteria, for what they are and learn. I don't have to like them, but I do have to try to understand. 

Clear cutting is a common practice and it is almost always followed by replanting. The forests that are cut down are never the same. They basically become farmland, like much of the US and Canadian prairies have become farmland. I actually love farmland, the kind that grows fruits and veggies and grains. Why can't I love the farmlands that grow trees? Good question, and I have some answers, but let me tell you about logging now instead.

We stumbled upon a medium sized logging yard in Sayward on Vancouver Island, in Kelsey Bay. We got out of the car to stretch our legs and walk Kona, and wandered closer to the operations, which we found fascinating. This is just one stage in the logging to lumber process, but it was one we could actually observe easily, versus the taking down of trees or processing wood into lumber or paper products.

First the logs arrive at the yard on trucks and they are unloaded and sorted into huge piles. They are removed from the truck and moved around by these equally huge machines that I don't know the name of.  Now let me just say that this all happens at an amazing rate. We're not talking about big heavy machinery "lumbering" around like elephants.  No, this is a speedy business that moves a lot of wood very quickly. Time is money in this industry too.

At some point the logs are lifted and moved in large sorted batches over to these ramps down which they slide and splash into the water.  Sometimes they are bundled with cables before they slide into the water, and sometimes they are left in loose bundles. (The machine on the right is a cable binder.)

In the water, these zippy little tug boats wait for the loads of logs...

...then down come the logs...

... and the tugs zoom in and push the logs to their designated alleys.

The tugs tilt so crazily as they zip around that they look like carnival rides.

Once the logs are pushed out away from the loading area, men who are the modern equivalent of lumberjacks walk across the floating logs, look at them and write thing down on their clipboards. We've been told that these guys are probably buyers examing the logs for purchase or in preparation for making a bid.

Some of them are literally running over the floating logs.  Like I said, this is a quick business.

The logs wait there to be shipped off to other ports. Sometimes they are lashed together and floated short distances. Other times they are loaded on barges and transported further away.  Much of the US and Canada lumber is sold to Asia, but I read recently that there is a cap of 20% of US logs sold outside the county. Not sure that's true, or what the policy is in Canada.  Whenever logs are sold out of the country, the domestic lumber industry suffers.

Many people in this part of the world depend on the logging industry for their livelihoods. And of course, we all use wood and wood products, and this is where much of that wood comes from.  The logging industry is doing its best to make this a sustainable resource, keeping themselves in business and benefiting its employees, investors and consumers. But what about those real forests and the benefits they provide? Could this all be done differently?

Three Vancouver Island Adventures: Part III

Tofino

Every once in awhile we want to visit someplace that's too far from our campground for a day trip, or doesn't have a campground or a road suitable for our RV.  Here on Vancouver Island we were told that we had to see Tofino, and we weren't sure we wanted to take the RV over the mountain road to get there. So once again, the three of us loaded up the Subaru for an overnight adventure.

Tofino is on the west coast of Vancouver Island and is renowned for it's many long sandy beaches. Up here most of the beaches are rocky, so sandy beaches are a real treat. It's like the California of Canada. Surf shops, lots of young people, campers, hikers, bikers, many tourists, a few little trendy spots, oh, and lots of trees.  There are lots of trees all over the Pacific Northwest. Sometimes it makes it hard to see where you're going.

The drive west along Rt. 4, the Pacific Rim Highway, took us about four hours, and we stopped half way for a picnic at the falls on the Kennedy River.

Although we were staying overnight at a B&B in Ucluelet, we headed right to the town of Tofino to get the lay of the land, look for the beaches and for a place to have supper.

We scoped out the marinas, which were mostly fishing boats, and the few streets that make up the "city center."  That done, we went to find the beaches. The Pacific Rim Provincial Park stretches along the coast from Ucluelet to Tofino and has the famous Long Beach.  We were told at the visitor's information center that there were plenty of free beaches in Tofino itself so rather than pay the park fee we sought out those free beaches.

Although there is public access to all the beaches, parking is not available everywhere. Resorts also line the coast, making it difficult to access the beaches.  It was like being in one of those exclusive resort areas like Fire Island or Hilton Head where you have the feeling that you don't know the password to get to the places you want to go, but everyone else does. If you're staying in a resort you get the password, or secret directions, or something, but if you're not, you're on your own. After a few tries to find the shore, (did I mention there are lots of trees?) we finally did find Chesterton Beach. 

At one end of the beach there were rocks and tide pools, so we explored those first. See the purple and orange sea stars?

 See the pile of kelp that looks like rope?



 The beach was very wide and flat, as the tide was out.

We walked all the way out to a small off shore island, called Frank Island, but it was private so we couldn't actually go onto it once we got there.

There was lots of the ubiquitous driftwood made into little structures and fences like these.

Kona had a blast playing in the waves. I think sandy ocean beaches are her favorites. There were lots of  people with dogs, and even though signs required leashes, many dogs were running free. 

After our very long walk on the beach we staggered back to town for dinner, and found a place called Shelter where we had a great dinner. The ambience was trendy, with chill lounge music playing, surfers on the big screen TVs, lots of wood and leather, and a young hip wait staff all in black. We liked it almost as much as Latitude 48, our favorite restaurant in Whitefish, Montana.

After dinner (with delish dessert), we drove south to Ucluelet, a similar kind of town, where our B&B, the Harbour House was.  We were warmly welcomed by the lovely teutonic Ursula, who looked just like her name, and shown to our perfect room overlooking the bay from our private porch with a private hot tub. Very romantic. 

The next morning, after fresh croissants and fruit, we were off to the Tofino Botanical Gardens.  I don't know quite what to say about them. It might be best described as au natural. (Did I mention there are lots of trees?) 

The task of simply maintaining paths through what is close to a rainforest must be daunting in and of itself. 

Carving out a few cleared places for a cafe, pond, kitchen garden, meditation benches, wildlife viewing blinds, chicken coops...

..and a kind of interesting collection of driftwood sculptures seems to be about all that's going on there.

So, that's what we've been up to. In a few days we are moving south to a place near the city of Victoria to see the Butchart Gardens and have tea at the Empress Hotel.

Three Vancouver Island Adventures - Part II

Kayaking on Quadra Island

Quadra Island is one of the Discovery Islands that dot the inland passage between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia. One way to think of them is the Canadian counterpart of the San Juan Islands further south.

Looking out at Quadra Island's lighthouse from Campbell River.

 After lunch we loaded the Subaru and the kayaks on the ferry in Campbell River, no reservations required, and were pulling into Quathiaski Cove ten minutes later.

Arriving at Quathiaski Cove on the Ferry 

Rebecca Spit

 The drive to the east side of the island took about the same amount of time. We were heading for Rebecca Spit, a Provincial Park, that provides some protection for Heriot Bay. We are not expert kayakers by any means, and so we were looking for some safe flat water. We definitely found it. The wind and water were both very quiet and the temperature was comfortably warm when we started out.

View of the mainland from Rebecca Spit

On Heriot Bay, inside Rebecca Spit

We paddled across Heriot Bay, spotted some sea stars on the rocks, looked at the boats in the marina, then headed back. The wind began to pick up and by the time we got back I was paddling kind of hard.  (Rick however was gliding effortlessly through the waves. We have two very different kinds of kayaks.) After packing everything back into and onto the car we got a burger and falafel (both excellent) at the Raving Raven, a small native run establishment on the road back to the ferry.  Great timing - we caught the 6:30 ferry back to Campbell River.  "Rush hour" was clearly over; no one even took our return trip ticket.

Next: Our overnight to Tofino.

Three Vancouver Island Adventures - Part I

In the past two weeks we've had three grand adventures: a day cruise on the MV Uchuck III; kayaking on Quadra Island; and an overnight to Tofino.

The MV Uchuck III From Gold River to Friendly Cove

The Uchuck III is a freight boat that delivers to small ports all along the Nootka Sound, on the west side of the island. For a reasonable fee you can travel with her to various destinations, depending on the day.

About half way through the route a small boat pulled up alongside the moving ship to receive a shipment of bait. The crew threw four boxes over to the driver and his two kids. 

They allow dogs on the Uchuck III so Kona came along and made lots of friends.

Above is the hold cover, which while moving many passengers used as a sun deck.

This is the captain and his dog on the bridge, or the wheel house. The crew were all very friendly and welcoming. They don't make you feel like you're in the way, which makes sense because the passengers basically keep the boat in business I think.

We chose one of her shorter routes, to Friendly Cove, a very small outpost of one the tribes of aboriginal people here. (There are something like fourteen tribes on the island alone, all with long and unfamiliar names and I'm sorry but I don't know them.) 

They host visitors to the cove, run a little campground, and give tours of the old church there and other places if requested.

The old Spanish Catholic church looks pretty typical outside, but the inside is very different:

This carving along with four totem poles now inhabit the church.

A cemetery on the cove, with both Christian and aboriginal markers.

The day was beautiful, and so was the scenery from beginning to end. 

Along the route there were places where the fog rolled over the water and land masses. 

The snow capped mountains were always just over the closest hills as we traveled 

along the Nootka Sound to the sea. 

After about six hours we pulled back into the port of Gold River, with it's fishing boats and its aerodrome (what they call an airport for sea planes around here).

Next Part II: kayaking on Quadra Island.

In Our Neighborhood

As I've not been able to keep up with all the things we've been doing and seeing, (slow connections) I thought I'd just share a few of my favorite pictures taken just walking distance from our campsite. There is a lovely trail along the Georgia Strait, down to the Oyster River, that we've been walking almost every day. It passes through reedy wetlands, deciduous and coniferous forests, meadows, farmland, dunes, and ends at the estuary. We see eagles almost every time, along with herons, harlequin ducks, Canada geese, flickers, gulls, spotted towhee, white-winged scoters and more. It's a birder's paradise and if I knew more of the little flitters I'd tell you what they were.

Above is the wetlands, and below is the Oyster River, where Kona likes to swim. These photos were all taken in the evening, so they have that magical light effect.

In the woods there are these small lilies, much like tiger lilies, but with much smaller blossoms.

We see lots of container barges along the Strait, and cruise ships once or twice a week.  This looks like we're in Alaska doesn't it? We've been having beautiful clear weather and get great views like this one of the mountains on mainland British Columbia.

Tomorrow we are going for an overnight trip to the west coast of Vancouver Island, to the beach towns of Tofino and Ucluelet. I hope I'll be able to share pictures soon.